A cloud forest is just that--a forest in a cloud. Monteverde is a land of clouds, mists, rainbows, a dichotomy of reserve and clearcut....

The trip here yesterday began with having to push back at the car rental agency. It was a fairly long walk to Budget, about 45 minutes through San Jose. I was worried they would be closed that early in the morning, Glen worried they would try to give us a car, not a 4WD. They were/did neither. Instead they said our reservations were for 1 pm and there was no vehicle until then. I sat down and said we would wait right there until 1 pm and Glen said he would go find another agency. Funny, suddenly there was a car at the airport that could be here. We were out of there by 10 pm (2 hours later) and as we waited we had a nice breakfast at a French style bakery across the street.

The road to Monteverde was rough. The Pan-American highway was fine, although it was winding and narrow and had big trucks in parts. The 35 km to Monteverde was very bumpy and took 2-1/2 hours. The trip here was a part of the trip itself! (Glen was driving and drove the entire trip, to save the $5/day charge for an extra driver).

There can be some comparison of Monteverde (the town) to Gatlinburg, Tennessee, but not really. It is developed, but all the hotels seem nice but quaint. The restaurants are good and not overly expensive (Costa Rica is a not a cheap destination, like Mexico, but the dollar still goes a ways). There seem to be many U.S. expatriates, from Stella's Bakery to the Butterfly Farm, even to the original Quakers-Friends who started Monteverde. Most people speak English and all are friendly and laid back. This would come, I suppose, with choosing to live here and starting a small business--and by joining a community started by Quakers.

This Cafe seem to be the place for the younger adults (our age) of the town--batik, wood, Counting Crows then soft guitar music on the tape deck. It would fit right in in Boulder, no problemo! Such a contrast, totally opposite from last night. We ate in our hotel (the Bel Mar) last night and we were by far the youngest people there (three big tables of tour bus people in evidence--loudly in evidence).

What does it take--mentally, emotionally, financially--to start a place like this Cafe in a place like this?

Yesterday, we decided to arrange an early bird tour. We were a little too early (5:30 am), since it was still dark (and Eric our guide, called by our hotel the night before, thought we were a little nuts).

The first part of the trail we were greeted by the sound of howler monkeys. A haunting, low, wild animal sound. We only caught a glimpse of them, though we could hear them for a long ways.

We did get a good view of a female Resplendent Quetzal--and a better look when we looped back around to their nesting/feeding spot. That time around showed us that our decision to go in the early morning was the correct one. By 9:30 am the trail was filled with groups of people. At 6 am, it was just us with our guide and another small group and theirs, who did not bother us.

One thing that Eric told was that many birds in the cloud forest travel as a loose flock, from the top of the canopy to the bottom. This helps them stir up and find food and helps protect them from predators. One can follow this "flock" and see some 50 species in a few hours.

Eric was amazing, as most good guides are, at seeing birds and knowing what they were immediately. He had birded in New Jersey (U.S.) in a contest. Afterwards, he said he was going to make notes of the birds we saw. Very serious birder/naturalist--very neat.

The hummingbird gallery was nice (feeders with lots of birds) and the butterfly gallery was outstanding for getting a close look (and photos) of mariposas.

Just now, Glen was so pleased with his lunch of mushroom potato stroganoff, he went back to the kitchen and asked for the recipe. She was flattered! Also said she is planning to do a cookbook as part of her time here. I would love to know her story, why she is here running this wonderful place.